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The Camigliano 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Paesaggio Inatteso shows a more balanced approach to this challenging vintage. I've always liked the concept of this wine, or of the hidden beauty of the Montalcino landscape, as the wine name "unexpected landscapes" suggests. It is well suited to Camigliano, which is quite literally tucked away in its own magical corner of the appellation with wide horizons and sun-drenched hills. This special selection of fruit (in a 3,800-bottle release) shows a ripe side with dark cherry and blackberry, but it ends with velvety, pliant tannins that are good for near and medium-term drinking.

MONICA LARNER